Last issue we had a case history about the use of the Z-bar shoe (American Farriers Journal May/June 2004). Now, we’ll take a look at a couple of ways to make this shoe.

First we’ll look at making the shoe from one piece of bar stock, as was the shoe used on the horse in the case study. Then we’ll look at making the shoe from two pieces of stock, with the bar portion of the shoe jump welded in.

After making these shoes for this article, I prefer the one-piece method. It seemed to flow off the anvil easier. But I’d suggest building a couple shoes each way to see if you like one more than the other.

Single-Piece Method

For the one-piece method, begin with a normal toe bend, then bend one branch toward the inside of the shoe sharply (Figures 1-3). Bend this piece in the opposite direction somewhere in the middle (Figure 4).

At this point, move to the heel region of the other branch and make a short hockey stick (Figure 5). Bring the ends of the shoe together (Figure 6) and line them up so that they overlap at 90 degrees to each other (Figure 7). Weld at this corner (Figure 8) and move to the tip of the horn to shape and forge the weld (Figure 9).

When nailing shoes on injured feet, I like to have multiple nailing options, as well as a crease to allow individual nail pulling. With this in mind, fuller the shoe from the heel to the opposite branch (Figures 10 and 11) and drift and pritchel several nail holes around the shoe (Figures 12 and 13).

Two-Piece Approach

For the two-piece method, begin with a toe bend (Figure 14). You can see that it matches the first shoe (Figure 15), so you could take this blank to the foot to determine where to cut the shoe and come across to the frog with the bar portion of the shoe. Next take a piece of metal and shape it to fit inside the shoe, from the area you want to cut to the heel area. Begin on the tip of the horn and make the first bend to get to the heel of the shoe (Figure 16).

The next bend will be in the opposite direction at an appropriate distance to cover the frog (Figures 17 and 18). Once the initial bends are made, you can move to the soft corners of the anvil to clean up and define your bends (Figures 19 to 22). Place this piece on the blank to check your bends (Figure 23).

Jump weld the blank to the piece with the bend (Figure 24). Try to get rid of the seams on the first welding heat (Figure 25). Take another welding heat and clean up the first weld (Figures 26 and 27). Now heat the opposite branch and cut off the pieces with your fuller so that they are square (Figures 28 and 29).

Flux, reheat and weld (Figure 30). Fuller this shoe the same way you did the first (Figure 31). The corner at the second weld may need a little cleaning up, so I am doing this with my fuller (Figure 32). The next step would be to rasp this corner. Figure 33 shows the finished shoes.

An Easier Fit

Both shoes could be nailed on the same foot, but I was able to get to this point a little more easily with the one-piece shoe. That being said, I think it would be a lot easier to fit the second shoe.

Make this shoe a part of your arsenal. I am sure that you will be able to use it to save a horse somewhere down the road. This is another one of the shoes that is not commercially available, but is still a viable, useful item in the hands of the right farrier.